By: Ignatius Chan [ Instagram ] and XEONIQ [ Instagram | Tumblr ]
Introduction
Ignatius “Iggy” Chan is a designer working in Vancouver, Canada. He’s been a friend for many years and is one of the most passionate people I’ve met when it comes to techwear and like me he has his own unique perspective and vision for how clothing could be used to benefit consumers in the future. After launching my first Chatlog with Jo [ Shellzine LINK ], Iggy suggested trying out a topic he was interested in: the capsule wardrobe.
To preface the log, I thought I’d collate a few definitions of “the capsule wardrobe” from more mainstream fashion publications, as a starting point and to provide a little differentiation from the more “techwear”-slanted approach Iggy and I would take. The definitions provided online don’t seem to be universal and I’ve copied them over verbatim below:
When a wardrobe is considered ‘capsule’, it tends to mean a streamlined edit of items that all work well together, pieces that complement one other. This helps to ensure that nothing goes unused or unworn. Traditionally, a capsule wardrobe sticks to mutual hues so that everything coordinates; it’s made up of around 10 and 20 pieces such as staple jeans, a T-shirt that goes with everything, a classic trench coat, blazer, dresses that can be styled up or down and comfortable knitwear. However, in recent years, it has been established that a capsule wardrobes can actually look different to everyone – ultimately, it is about the pieces that work for your lifestyle.
Jessica Davis for Harper’s Bazaar (2023) – LINK
A capsule wardrobe is a collection of classic pieces that work together with versatility, allowing you to create look after look with just a few items. Boutique owner Susie Faux coined the term “capsule wardrobe” in the 1970s to describe mix-and-match basics, and designer Donna Karan popularized the term in the 1980s when she released a capsule collection of fashionable workwear. A capsule wardrobe consists of your most essential clothing items, which serve as the building blocks of your closet.
Masterclass (2021) – LINK
A capsule wardrobe is simply a collection of clothing composed of thoughtfully curated, easily interchangeable items designed to maximize the number of outfits that you can create. Essentially, a capsule wardrobe allows you to create a variety of different looks with a small selection of clothes.
Modern Minimalism (2023) – LINK
Less, but better. A capsule wardrobe is a small, tightly edited collection of clothes that gives you the most bang for your buck. Imagine if James Bond needed a closet he could travel the world with. He’d want one to cover all his bases — from grabbing his morning espresso on the Italian coast, to important “business meetings” with Q — all without taking up a lot of space.
Peter Nguyen for The Essential Man (n.d.) – LINK
There’s some interesting points covered here. The Essential Man seems to liken the concept to a curated set of clothes that are versatile for a traveller’s needs. Modern Minimalism reads like a mathematics exercise in creating the most amount of outfits with the least amount of clothes. Masterclass gives some background history, where it presents the concept of “sportswear” separates, and then mentions how brands have used “the capsule wardrobe” as a marketing term to denote the customisation of various items into several outfits; with no consideration for minimalism at all. Harper’s Bazaar frames it in a way that I didn’t consider: that many use it to create some conformity with a seasonal or “current” set of items you “must have”; but then noting how personalisation can be achieved with “lifestyle” considerations.
I found that last part a bit interesting, as I’ve always held techwear in that regard: as a practical and considered application of someone’s lifestyle, locality and personal taste to create a higher performance outfit than would be possible if one just bought hyped brands regardless of what they actually needed.
After sharing those basic definitions with Iggy, we started the Chatlog below.
The Chatlog
So when you think “capsule wardrobe” what first comes to mind? I thought we could give our own definitions in response to what we read previously and then give some pros and cons related to the concept and process of creating a capsule wardrobe. After that we can discuss how we might make our own capsule wardrobes.
XEONIQ – 11:56
I think over time, my definition of a capsule wardrobe has changed over time. But at its core, to me its a matter of anti-consumerism, curation and optimization. I encountered the idea fairly organically when I first started university, where due to gaining a passion for exercise, I outgrew a lot of the clothing I wore when I was younger and was fairly limited on budget. The puzzle for me became how to find the most “optimal” garments that would allow me to fit into the environment that I was in, and to create a system that would allow me to make simple decisions for dress. From the perspective of how it functions for me, a capsule wardrobe is anathema to excess, and is a way to both focus on curation but also ensuring that the garments I purchase are considered and utilitarian. It creates restrictions, but also helps bring self awareness to the environment and our true needs when it comes to material objects.
Iggy – 11:59
So for you the minimalism is important, not just in buying less things but in creating less waste. You’re also into making it easier or more convenient to style yourself in the morning when getting ready to work. And you’ve thrown in some consideration for performance or at least utility there. That is something that we probably wouldn’t see in most of these generic fashion blogs’ coverage of the topic.
XEONIQ – 12:01
The convenience part of getting dressed does seem to be relevant for a lot of people. Some have accumulated a lot of stuff over time and I imagine if you have a bit of perfectionism in you, it could be overwhelming trying to dress based on how you “feel” in the morning if your wardrobe is eclectic.
XEONIQ – 12:02
I guess a few of the articles touched on that a bit. Having things work well together. Maybe for a lot of people into technical clothes this is less an issue if it is all just black, or maybe olive heh
XEONIQ – 12:03
Utility and function as a feature of capsule wardrobes have always been a part of the way we dress. Aesthetic is a form of function that allow us to navigate relationships with the society around us. For me, when looking at performance, my goal whether I’m searching for or designing pieces, is to look towards the idea of “hyper-function”, where garments are akin to armor, yet envelop you like a silk cocoon.
Iggy – 12:09
It’s not that disorder is overwhelming, some people work really well within a context of maximalism, but it’s just not for me. I want to be able to wake up, look outside, and know what I’m going to wear for the day.
Iggy – 12:10
Yea, and one thing some people might not consider is that “functionality” or utility are concepts that relate to an entire outfit, not a single product. So if you are going out in the rain in a GORE-TEX shell, but your pants are jersey and the sneakers are some polyester streetwear crap, the water-resistance of that jacket didn’t really matter for the outfit.
XEONIQ – 12:11
I personally like dressing based on feeling rather than pre-planning what I will wear the next day. I imagine people who pre-plan their outfits wouldn’t have the same convenience benefit from a capsule wardrobe.
XEONIQ – 12:12
Since conceivably they would have time to cognitively put together a look they liked the night before even if their wardrobe was huge and all over the place.
XEONIQ – 12:13
Gore-Tex is a gateway, and is a good starting point for most consumers to understand the value of technical apparel. But for the general population, it’s still seen as quite absurd to be spending upwards of 300$ on a jacket. The advent of Shein hauls signal still that the consumer is still obsessed with quantity over quality, and trend over personal aesthetic.
Iggy – 12:16
On pre-planning outfits, there’s a lot of room to switch up that plan last minute which leads to indecision and often frustration. If you’ve confined your choices but are happy with what you have, you can be satisfied every time – until you aren’t.
Iggy – 12:17
Yea when you add some time constraints to it I can imagine it would get frustrating.
XEONIQ – 12:18
Personally when I think capsule wardrobe the first thing that comes to mind are those photos you see on social media, where it’s like a black rack against a white wall and there’s a handful of jackets, pants and a pair of sneakers.
XEONIQ – 12:19
Like the person curated this little set and turned it into a commodity to get attention. And I’d guess when the average person looks in their closet and it’s full of a variety of items and styles accumulated over many years, they can clearly see “wow this looks much better”.
XEONIQ – 12:21
So there must be some inspirational motivation created with such shots.
XEONIQ – 12:21
I guess too, the process of photographing a curated set like that adds an extra element of creative challenge compared to simply photographing a jacket on a hanger on its own. Now it’s a customised curated set of potential outfits. I understand the creative burn out that can happen photographing or even sharing the same kind of shot over and over.
XEONIQ – 12:22
It does draw a certain crowd, the advent on the curated wardrobe page on tumblr and pinterest and lent to the rise of smug minimalists that buy overpriced plain black t-shirts. The ultra luxury view of the capsule wardrobe is something I frown upon as much as I do towards the overconsumption. It gatekeeps the idea that you have to own expensive things to own less things. To me, it all boils down to your own context and the prescribed value that you put on clothing.
Iggy – 12:26
Yea, definitely. That works with my idea of techwear as well: considering the context and environment. Cookie cutter looks that are just comprised of all the meme’d collectable pieces is the antithesis of that as you end up with people walking around LA in GORE-TEX shells in an airconditioned shopping mall. Doesn’t look technical either, it just looks awkward.
XEONIQ – 12:28
So we know what a capsule wardrobe is. A set of curated garments that cover most clothing necessities in a person’s lifestyle.
XEONIQ – 12:29
But I’d like to chat about what developing a curated wardrobe actually entails. You don’t just wake up with one.
XEONIQ – 12:29
You either need to grab a few pieces that you have which you seem to wear the most and throw out the rest, perhaps buying a piece here and there to fill in any gaps. Or like some of those blogs I linked above, they seem to want you to start fresh from scratch. Or even per season.
XEONIQ – 12:30
So there is a big consumption element to a “curated wardrobe” in my opinion. Or at least in starting one. Even if you buy nothing and just curate down what you already have, that’s a lot of stuff to potentially throw away or donate.
XEONIQ – 12:31
There is definitely a major consumption element to the curated wardrobe. Comparison is the thief of joy, and often it leads to people wanting to change their whole lifestyle, only to end up owning more.
Iggy – 12:32
I imagine there must be a few people who even use the capsule wardrobe “inspo” online as a motivation to do spring cleaning of their own wardrobes.
XEONIQ – 12:33
Spring cleaning is always good, Marie Kondo has provided great inspiration for this, in the idea of only owning things that spark joy.
Iggy – 12:34
Yea, I agree. I think that a lot of these blog articles especially Harper’s Bazaar seem to use the capsule wardrobe concept as a way to get their reader’s buy even more. As if there are certain temporal capsule necessities you NEED to have.
XEONIQ – 12:34
I think that’s the crux of it really, I would say a major pro is that it can be a tool to teach appreciation and gratitude.
Iggy – 12:35
Yea I think if I were to make a capsule wardrobe I’d definitely be basing it around things that I had good memories of or that made me happy.
XEONIQ – 12:35
So before we start talking about our own capsule ideas, let’s just belt out a few pros and cons.
XEONIQ – 12:36
I think we have quite different opinions on “why” someone should be undertaking a capsule wardrobe compared to more mainstream blogs that want you to go out and get these “must have” camel coats and cropped jeans, or whatever is on trend “and works with everything”.
XEONIQ – 12:38
What pros do you see in undertaking this process of throwing away a lot, potentially buying all new things and creating a kind of modular and “efficient” capsule?
XEONIQ – 12:39
Well the thing is, you don’t really have to throw away everything. I would try and assess what you currently like in your wardrobe, and try to figure out why. In doing so, you’re able to make a more informed decision about your future purchases.
Iggy – 12:40
Future purchases is something you just made me realise. Having a capsule wardrobe means you’re going to have to be pretty cognitive and considerate with what you buy wouldn’t you?
XEONIQ – 12:47
Because if you’re not, you are going to end up with a huge wardrobe of things that might not be as modular.
XEONIQ – 12:48
Exactly. I would say that a benefit of a capsule wardrobe as an exercise, is understanding how what you wear can become an extension of your being.
Iggy – 12:49
Not to get too spiritual about it.
Iggy – 12:49
That might have a downside though couldn’t it? Because some of my favourite pieces were bought on a whim, or because of a urgent need like I was on holiday and a shoe broke, or were gifted. Removing emotional reasons from consumption should be more efficient but I would argue some element of emotion that could be positive is lost too.
XEONIQ – 12:50
It’s a balance, but going through the thought process of whether or not you really need something is already better than not having put the thought into it.
Iggy – 12:53
Definitely.
XEONIQ – 12:53
Another thought… what if because you had this capsule wardrobe concept, whatever it was, you keep only buying new things that work with the existing pieces, or replace destroyed ones. Would that kind of.. conform you to it? And what would happen if your lifestyle or tastes or environment changed? You’d potentially have to start all over again wouldn’t you if the change was significant enough.
XEONIQ – 12:54
As long as you can remember that your wardrobe conforms to your needs and not the way around, I think it’s fine.
Iggy – 12:54
Yea, “considered consumerism” is something another friend and I talk about a bit.
XEONIQ – 12:55
As you grow, change and become more knowledgeable, what you consider within a capsule will as well.
Iggy – 12:55
Nothing needs to be set in stone, but giving restrictions and consideration to consumption is a net positive.
Iggy – 12:56
Alright, well, I think we have covered some of the pros and cons of the “process” of creating a curated capsule wardrobe and having to live with one. Let’s now talk about how we would create our own capsules.
XEONIQ – 12:57
Have you started on a capsule wardrobe? Or are you entertaining one right now?
XEONIQ – 12:57
Well, I think there’s a few angles to go about it. There’s a few distinct factors, a few of which that I’ve mentioned previously. If I were to go about starting from scratch, this is how I would begin to define the wardrobe.
Iggy – 13:05
1. Archetypes: These are the cookie cutter categorizations. Within jackets you have Bombers, Car Coats, Parkas, Rainshells – You name it. When deciding where to start with an object, I would start from the principle object. I would determine that I need a “Hardshell Rain Jacket” due to living in the pacific northwest as part of my wardrobe, and that would allow me to start my research.
Iggy – 13:09
2. Function: Using the hardshell the questions that come to mind are what do I need it to do? It rains pretty hard so likely Gore-tex is the most optimal option. As I commute and travel, I want something that isn’t super heavy – so a shell jacket is the optimal jacket for the environment.
Iggy – 13:10
3. Systems: I have always been a fan of military systems for weather protection. The extreme cold weather system is a great entry point to understanding layering, and many technical brands today use this framework for building their collections. Here you’re looking at your Outer layer, Mid layers, and base layers. or in other terms Shell jacket, insulated jacket, and t-shirts. For me, my wardrobe consists of shell jackets – insulated / non-insulated (Outer layers), hoodies (midlayers) and merino t-shirts (base layers) Each with specific functions for day to day comfort.
Iggy – 13:11
4. Style: This is probably the hardest one to cultivate. It takes time and research and a lot of misses to figure out what you like. Just because it looks good on the instagram model, doesn’t mean it’ll look good on you. Some garments only really look good in a lookbook with kungfu kicks.
Iggy – 13:12
Personally, I’ve considered my wardrobe a system of dress for longer than I can remember, I use a spreadsheet and try to keep the wardrobe to a small number of curated pieces. I have the privilege of working in design, and with that comes the ability to quite literally build a capsule wardrobe.
Iggy – 13:12
So how many pieces do you have now roughly? Would you consider it minimal? Or it’s capsule more by how modular it is rather than total size.
XEONIQ – 13:14
Not including socks, underwear and base-layer multiples – I currently own 18 unique pieces of clothing. I do admit that my system is a bit extreme, but it brings me joy and it doesn’t hinder my ability to dress for any occasion.
Iggy – 13:15
All the pieces in the wardrobe are modular, to the point where I can get dressed in the dark and still be perfectly happy to walk out the door.
Iggy – 13:15
18 seems pretty light compared to most people yea.
XEONIQ – 13:15
It is the extreme.
Iggy – 13:16
I reckon a lot of people who aren’t even into fashion could easily have 50-100 individual pieces.
XEONIQ – 13:17
Which I don’t recommend for most people.
Iggy – 13:17
Well, 18 sounds more livable than some of the set ups on Instagram with about half that number.
XEONIQ – 13:18
And that’s sort of the point, the number should be livable.
Iggy – 13:19
I’m actually quite curious about your set-up. Based on your social media presence it looks like you have quite the well selected system.
Iggy – 13:19
I had actually been living out of a suitcase for a better part of the year, travelling, and only recently settled down again. Bit nomadic. So I was kind of been forced to be cognitive with what pieces I had to cover a range of contexts for the outfits I could make with them.
XEONIQ – 13:20
I wanted a suit in my nomadic capsule that was for sure. I love wearing suits casually and since I’ve been in South East Asia and Australia that was a ultra light nyco set up my partner made for me. Shoes were a hard part for it. I really can’t stand seeing suits with trainers because of how busy their designs usually are which clashes terribly with menswear. But at the same time since I like wearing casual suits with a t-shirt I don’t want formal dress shoes. I got a pair of Ventile low top sneakers from Hi-Tec which are surprisingly light weight and water resistant and have a minimal look that goes with the suit.
XEONIQ – 13:22
I then have a pair of nylon spandex martial arts style pants from ROSEN-X that I can wear for exercise, around home or even with fashion. They have stretch are quick dry and quite wind resistant while not insulating. With a sleeveless tee they are nice for exercise or home. With a overshirt it is a nice casual look.
XEONIQ – 13:23
I needed a good bag for work stuff that could survive getting wet and that was comfortable for carrying long distances. It had to be a backpack, messengers distribute weight terribly while on foot if you have more than 10kg in them like I do. The Mystery Ranch Gunfighter I have now is not bad. I needed it for it’s size because of my new machine, but honestly I preferred the slightly smaller and much cheaper Condor Failsafe.
XEONIQ – 13:24
I then have a few normal t-shirts, all cotton because I find polyester “performance” tees reek after a half day in the heat no matter they have silver fibre or not. And a pair of ultra light nyco Hiten pants. This is just a nice casual outfit that I can still commute in, the pants are quick dry and it looks a bit smarter than the martial arts pant look for social reasons.
XEONIQ – 13:24
I think since you and I live in opposite climates, with you in Canada where it gets cold and me in the South where it’s humid and warm, the way I approach dress is mostly all about social contexts and the ability to do physical exercise without overheating or other constraints. Being light weight, which helps for carrying in a suitcase as well, and breathable while covering the contexts I need is pretty much the only priority.
XEONIQ – 13:25
I’ve found my Danner Tachyons to be a great versatile shoe choice as again they are a lot lighter than even many sneakers on the market today and they work well with both the Hiten chino type pants and the cropped martial arts pants I wear mostly.
XEONIQ – 13:25
Again, this was all out of necessity due to having live out of a suitcase for months on months. There were days when I’d really liked to have had some more variety. And frankly now having most of my wardrobe back out of storage as I’ve settled down again, I am happier having a lot of those pieces I missed a lot like my Issey Miyake parkas and C.P. Company shearling bombers.
XEONIQ – 13:27
I notice you mention a GORE-TEX shell a few times in your system write up. Is that also from Arc’teryx?
XEONIQ – 13:29
I’m contractually obligated to mention gore-tex in every conversation I have due to signing my soul to the dead bird.
Iggy – 13:30
Jokes aside, for my side of the world a shell jacket (Gore-tex or not) is a great functional piece. You can shove it in a bag when you leave the house when its overcast, and throw it on when it rains.
Iggy – 13:30
heh. I sold most of my GTX stuff. Actually all of it. Never got much use from it for comfort reasons compared to alternatives.
XEONIQ – 13:30
Most people use it for snow sport, but the adoption as part of the urban wardrobe is becoming more popular.
Iggy – 13:31
Yea, I do have a few membrane pieces still. Somehow I have gravitated towards long laminated nylon coats though, I guess I like the extra coverage over a shell and has a bit of drama compared to a hooded A-Line outdoors jacket.
XEONIQ – 13:33
Funny enough, I only own two shells.
Iggy – 13:34
So which shells are you using in your capsule collection now?
XEONIQ – 13:34
I own the Spectre jacket from Haven, which I had a hand in developing, and a custom Rosen-x Jacket that I helped design called the Altair.
Iggy – 13:35
Altair is an insulated ventile coat isn’t it?
XEONIQ – 13:35
My version is a 1 of 1 custom using a cotton face membrane fabric, the same as what is used in the Aeon Jacket.
Iggy – 13:36
You need to be sending me pics of more of the stuff you design. Always leaving me in the dark.. Mysterious designer.
XEONIQ – 13:36
Surprised you don’t have an Arc’teryx shell. Is the Haven one GORE-TEX?
XEONIQ – 13:37
The Haven one is Gore-tex Pro, made in Japan.
Iggy – 13:37
Cool. I’ll have to have a look.
XEONIQ – 13:39
They did a small run of them and i was lucky enough to purchase one at the release party.
Iggy – 13:39
Unique, nice.
XEONIQ – 13:40
I’ve inadvertently become a collector of rare technical garments – simply from ending up as someone who works with them haha
Iggy – 13:40
That must be hard with your capsule wardrobe of 18 pieces heh
XEONIQ – 13:41
hahaha, surprisingly not. Some of them just end up as references.
Iggy – 13:41
Ah hah. That’s your trick.
XEONIQ – 13:42
You actually own 150 items of clothing but it’s just that 132 don’t count because they are “references”
XEONIQ – 13:42
LOL
Iggy – 13:43
I got you this time.
XEONIQ – 13:44
Life hack.
Iggy – 13:44
So how do these jackets and the other pieces you have fit into your capsule’s style?
XEONIQ – 13:44
Mine’s kind of… 80’s retro-futuristic with a few Western and Eastern references here and there and a touch of sportswear I guess. Though I am phasing a lot of the sportswear out these days and replacing that with more robust surplus pieces. Also I am a bit sick of brands like Nike who are becoming very fast fashion with constant releases of cheap flashy junk. Once upon a time they used to make tough, nice quality stuff for the price but those days are done imo.
XEONIQ – 13:46
I think we have a similar aesthetic, in that I’m drawn to old military surplus designs, and hardwearing garments. For me, I look for clothes that I know will look good even with a few patches and stitch-ups on it.
Iggy 13:47
Wabi-sabi. Very 2015 of you.
XEONIQ – 13:47
Live in the past, build the future.
Iggy – 13:47
But yea I like a good patina. Stuff that looks worn and lived in versus squeaky clean nylon or polyester.
XEONIQ – 13:48
A little texture never hurt anyone.
XEONIQ – 13:48
Well I reckon we’ve given quite a bit of content for people to chew on. I appreciate your thoughts. I haven’t really thought of the capsule wardrobe concept much the last few years until you brought it up as a topic idea. I’m probably due for a spring cleaning soon and finally have all my storage gear out.
XEONIQ – 13:49
I can’t wait to see the spring cleaning article, would love to know your thoughts and process on how you go about it.
Iggy – 13:49
We have so much here I might cobble this into an article as well later, something more stream lined like a typical article.
XEONIQ -13:50
A guide never hurt anybody ;)
Iggy – 13:51
Hah, knowing me I’ll probably get overwhelmed with the idea of putting my Stone Island and C.P. Company archive junk on Grailed and just let it sit in the closet another decade.
XEONIQ – 13:51
Talk soon man, send me some of those pics later.
XEONIQ – 13:52
Thanks for having me, cheers.
Iggy – 13:53
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