Project by: Suffi Zhang [ Instagram | Email ]
Edited by: XEONIQ [ Instagram | Tumblr ]
Introduction
Suffi Zhang is a 1st year M.A. fashion tech student at Bunka Fashion Graduate University. Call of the Valley is his first year project: merging traditional, yet practical, nomadic Central Asian garment aesthetics with a modern technical perspective. Suffi was kind enough to provide me with his portfolio for Call of the Valley, which was an impressive 119 page document that detailed his inspiration, design and production processes, as well as computer graphic-supplemented photography of the final product.
With such an expansive and detailed project document, I felt that Call of the Valley deserved more than just a superficial treatment. By sharing insight into the planning and various activities that are necessary for even producing a smaller fashion design project like this, creatives could also learn from a more academic approach to their own work; especially those in fashion. Suffi’s synthesis of traditional aesthetics with modern pattern making, fabrics and design technologies has created something novel and of substance and his extensive documentation in technical drawings, sketches and photos is inspiration in itself. Even as a case study, Call of the Valley demonstrates the importance of considered ideation and planning to afford real synthesis of inspiration rather than just referential takes on the norm. In a world where the mechanics of capitalism and consumerism have dumbed-down our clothing and fashion into over-branded, poorly-inspired symbols of validation; there is great value in the simple appreciation of thoughtful design work as a creative process, which is illustrated here in Call of the Valley.
Below is an abridged summary of the project, left in the same order as originally presented. If you have further interest in Suffi’s Call of the Valley project, or his design work in general, please contact him via his e-mail or Instagram.
Research and Ideation
Two looks were conceived based on the marriage of a military Extreme Cold Weather Clothing System (ECWCS) and Central Asian nomadic garments, which were made to be rugged and insulating for harsh life on the steppes.
A variety of garments were conceived as conceptual sketches until a final set (red ticks) were decided on.
The final garments selected were combined into a sketch with watercolour treatment.
Process Stage I: Fabric
Rather than simply construct traditional garments out of modern technical fabrics, which is something that has been done extensively over the years by small designers and large brands alike, Suffi has combined natural fibres with technical features that also correlate with the Central Asian nomad inspiration.
Kyoto-made Nishijin-ori silk with a Water Repellent (WR) coating, Nano-Wing which is a fibre-stage water repellent cotton (essentially a Japanese version of Ventile), cotton linen, and a recycled polyester “eco-boa” were selected for creating the garments.
The buttons used in the project are made from a recycled cotton. During the garment dyeing process, these buttons also picked up the natural pigments in a way that Suffi was very pleased with.
Process Stage II: Pattern Design
The pattern making process blended mathematical design methods with a trial fit approach, to create the ideal patterns for the individual garments which reflected the core inspiration, an improved range of motion via 3D patterning and the desired final aesthetic fit on the model.
Process Stage III: Garment Dye
Some of the garments upon assembly were garment dyed using natural dyes that were traded along the Great Silk Road and widely used in Central Asia. This treatment provides additional differentiation as well as improved synergy with the nomadic stimulus.
Indian madder, or Rubia cordifolia: a flowering plant from the coffee family, is harvested for its roots that can be ground down into a red pigment. Green tea was the second natural dye used for this project.
Process Stage IV: Multimedia Work
3D animated video of renders of the different pieces were prepared and displayed on a Central Asian-inspired backdrop. The deployment of computer graphics within multimedia is a growing illustrative and marketing technique to showcase fashion products to supplement the staple studio shot photography on a model.
You may view the finished video animation below:
Individual Garment Tech Summaries
Technical drawings and pattern pieces for each of the garments that Suffi created were rendered in 2D. More exhaustive technical data was also prepared for each piece in the portfolio which would facilitate production as a marketable garment.
The Final Output: Call of the Valley
The following series of 12 images represents the final set of looks. With styling reminiscent of Snow Peak and the use of modern performance footwear and worn camping accessories, the two layered looks give an aesthetic nod to a currently on-trend outdoor technical style.
Photography by: Wei Zihan (Instagram | Web Portfolio)
If you have further interest in Suffi’s Call of the Valley project, or his design work in general, please contact him via his e-mail or Instagram.