Written by: XEONIQ [ Instagram | Tumblr ]
Yossy is the founder of Helvetica, a cyberpunk themed techwear brand from Japan. While the Helvetica techwear products recently had their first release, Yossy has been making and selling “reform” clothing under the same brand name for two years.
Reform is the practice of deconstructing and rebuilding existing garments into new creations. It is popular in DIY fashion circles as well as with cosplayers. Reform has also enjoyed niche success in the streetwear fashion market, with Japanese brands such as Rebuild by Needles and REBIRTH focusing primarily on military garments – repurposing them into fashion items; typically with an Americana or streetwear slant.
Helvetica was initially of interest to discuss on Shell Zine because he has taken the reform concept and applied it to a cyberpunk style with considerations for techwear’s practicality, function and comfort. As a lot of techwear brands have borrowed their aesthetic and practical considerations from the military and outdoors industries with a trend towards minimalist or streetwear conventions, it is novel that Helvetica has taken a decidedly cyberpunk approach, with an emphasis on punk.
This interview was conducted via email. As Yossy is a Japanese language speaker, machine translations were used both ways and the responses further edited for clarity.
1. How long have you been making reform clothes for?
I think I was about 15 years old when I first began working on reform. I was customizing vintage t-shirts with studs. Two years ago I started in earnest and began modifying many more garments types with a variety of techniques. It’s one of my occupations now.
2. Where did your initial interest in making clothes come from?
I was originally a hairdresser. One day I found a vintage outfit and I became envious because even though the designer had passed away, their designs continued to live on in the marketplace and maintained some sort of cultural relevance. For a hairdresser, there is no permanence. Hair changes almost immediately after it is cut as it grows. I wanted to work to create products and a legacy that would live longer than myself.
3. Is there any story or significance behind why you used “Helvetica” (a sans-serif font type) for your brand name?
I’ve been asked this very question more than 100 times. It seems that the only people who find the brand name strange are those who have studied design. The vast majority of people I interact with do not know that it is the name of a font. Helvetica, in my opinion, is a very attractive but subtle font that many people might not be able to recognize by name even if they see it every day in their lives. I want to make clothing that has that kind of quality and form: lacking any kind of obvious decal or logo but which stands out nonetheless. My vision is that if one day my products proliferate around the world, that even I would not be able to immediately recognize them being worn on someone walking by me in the street; just that it was interesting. That’s why I chose Helvetica as a brand name.
4. You seem to have clear cyberpunk references in your designs. Are there any cyberpunk media examples (movies, manga, anime, video games) that were particularly influential?
I only feel inspired by the humanity detailed in decadent things. Some of my media influences that have impacted on my brand and product designs include Akira, Naruto, Metal Gear Solid, and Blade Runner.
5. What features do you think are important for “cyberpunk” clothing as a style?
I think there are several factors. The clothing should use innovative materials and be functional firstly. Cyberpunk as an aesthetic should mirror cyberpunk as a genre and thus have a rebellious spirit. I also believe that the clothing should strengthen the wearer, like an exoskeleton, and at the same time be comfortable and not too stuffy or formal. This is what I believe, but I think that most brands in this niche genre don’t actually present these qualities. Even if their garments reference the cyberpunk aesthetic, they just come off as cosplay. What I want is to be able to make cyberpunk clothes as a practical, genuine product.
6. What differences do you see between “techwear” and “cyberpunk” clothing styles, if any?
I feel that the two terms are different. Techwear, in my mind, is a word for clothing that is comfortable and functional. Cyberpunk on the other hand is a style. That means that specific garments could be techwear, streetwear, fashion or some other type, but by styling them in a certain way, they can become part of a cyberpunk outfit. I think that Helvetica will be able to be considered a bit of both.
7. Is the cyberpunk style of clothing popular in Japan? Is the trend growing, shrinking or staying the same, in your opinion?
It’s a popular, but still underground, sub-culture. It’s still a very niche minority. It’s a sad thing, but I think that the cyberpunk culture will expand due to COVID19. Since the outbreak, people are not always walking, even in the once crowded Harajuku. It’s a dystopia. You need clothes that match the environment. You’ll need functional, mask-like details and protection. I hope to express this in my clothing.
8. Your reform work reminds me somewhat of the Japanese reform brand REBIRTH. What are the challenges in reform work, in your experience.
Reform is both one of the outputs of my work and my methodology for product development. I have both one-off reform pieces and my new pre-order batch made designs. For the pre-order designs, I will first reform existing pieces using experimentation, create a prototype and then wear it myself to test it. After this phase, I begin tweaking and remodeling the design to improve its functionality and aesthetic. I also test new new materials this way, some work in certain applications, some don’t. For the reform garments, items that are requested can be re-made from similar base garments. In this way I feel my work is like a laboratory and I can achieve a greater level of customization and testing than typical factory mass-production.
9. Recently you launched five pre-order batch made garments. Will this become your new focus for Helvetica or will you continue doing reform work as well?
The batch-made clothes are the technical wear that I want to express specifically without any of the limitations of the original garments that reform work has inherently. These clothes arrived after the experimental product development process, and will comprise the core of Helvetica®︎. Pattern technology is based on the use of innovative materials and ergonomics required by the wearer. Again, they must still be comfortable and practical for the wearer to serve as authentic cyberpunk garments. I feel turned off at the idea of having a season, so I will never release clothing on some kind of seasonal basis like most brands do. I want my customers to be confident that they will be able to wear the pieces next year and the year after that to create a brand that is both season-less and timeless. I also endeavor to make clothes that are robust and that will last, unlike fast fashion pieces. I think that is more sustainable for the customer.
10. Which of the new garments that you’ve designed was your favourite and why?
It’s a difficult question because I like everything I’ve made so far for different reasons. However, the most memorable thing I created was the reversible funnel neck jacket. I believe it is the world’s first jacket that features breathable Dyneema® and GORE-TEX® Pro in a mixed material design with both a reversible function and the ability to wear each material layer separately. The novelty of that combination makes it interesting I think. I had a very hard time collecting the materials for it, and there were various events that led me to this particular design. I went through many iterations and it was difficult to arrive at its final form. I am a little known designer, so I was determined to make a jacket that would stand out against the offerings of other brands in this niche market. I am satisfied that I was able to create a jacket that uses the highest quality materials available.
11. Do you have any more pre-order releases planned for this year?
Of course I do. I can’t tell you the details, but again I will present something that is a world first.
12. Are there any materials you prefer working with or using, and why? And are there any materials that you really do not like working with or using, and why?
One of the fun materials I enjoy using is Dyneema®. There are various types and some of them are not suitable for clothes. I think that DSM’s Dyneema® appeals to me so much because it’s a very challenging and diverse fabric. As a designer this appeals to me because of my background in reform I want to use something that is both somewhat unique compared to other brands and that which challenges me to find an application for the material that is a bit unconventional.
The materials that I don’t enjoy using includes anything that isn’t functional or comfortable. I specifically don’t like textiles that are too heavy. If it’s too heavy and uncomfortable, even if it is supposed to be some next-level performance fabric it will end up just sitting in your closet unworn. That relates to my ideal concept of cyberpunk clothing and how comfort and practicality is something that always must be maintained in the design and fabric choice.
13. What trends in cyberpunk or futuristic clothing do you want to see in 2021 and beyond?
I believe that many more mainstream brands will release techwear and cyberpunk clothing, at least in their aesthetic. I find that very interesting. A GORE-TEX® jacket with a “LV” logo may one day be released. How funny.
You can follow Yossy on his personal Instagram account at: yossy_helvetica.
His techwear brand’s Instagram account can be found at: helvetica.jp
Yossy’s Japanese language fashion and reviews VLOG on YouTube: yossy Helvetica