Written by: TESSELVTE [ Instagram ]
Edited by: XEONIQ [ Instagram | Tumblr ]
Contents
1. Introduction
The Rhomb jacket is an ultra-light waterproof jacket made from W. L. Gore’s latest offering; GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™. The material and cut allows the wearer to progress between high output activity and everyday wear. This jacket is the lightest in all of Veilance’s collection, not only that – it is highly breathable and compresses to an easy to carry self-contained pouch. Its RRP is $800 CAD and this jacket was purchased via proxy from an Arc’teryx Veilance store in Canada.
2. Performance Specifications
Feature Highlights:
- Weight: 165 grams
- GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™: No face fabric means no textile to soak through
- Water-Resistance rating: N/A (Claimed effectively waterproof)
- Breathability rating: N/A (Claimed highly breathable)
- Wind-resistant
- Welded and taped seams to prevent water seepage
- Minimal 2 pocket design
- Lightweight YKK zippers
- Reflective trim and back panel for visibility
- Packable pocket with button clasp to secure
- Includes mesh washbag to protect jacket during cleaning
3. Design Features
Since the inception of GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ in 2018 I’ve kept a close eye on its suitability for daily use. The offerings produced had only been limited to a small number of jackets tailored primarily for outdoor use like cycling and running. The release of the Rhomb appears to be the first with both urban and general outdoor environments in mind. After some consideration, and being a fan of Veilance, the Rhomb seemed perfect for me based on my daily activities and location.
Being based in Brisbane, a humid subtropical climate with temperature ranges of 20C (68F) and above year round, I needed something that would cover as many scenarios possible. It adheres to a minimalist style that Veilance is known for with a sleek design and lack of external branding. One thing to note is that the jacket isn’t completely black as the site states, it’s more of a dark brown and that can conflict with colour coordination and/or expectations for some. Personally, I find the colour distinct and one of the highlights of the Rhomb, and of Veilance in general with their muted but original colourways. The material’s texture when worn almost resembles synthetic polyurethane leather, without the bulk, and has significant, rubber-like friction. When brushing against surfaces the Rhomb grips much more than your typical nylon face fabric outer.
In terms of weight, the Rhomb only weighs 165g. This makes it half the weight of its older brother: the Arris jacket made from 3-Layer GORE-TEX C-KNIT™. The difference being the outer protective layer is eliminated, creating a jacket from a waterproof material that is as lightweight as possible. In comparison to dedicated waterproof running and cycling jackets, the Salomon Bonatti Race WP Jacket (hooded proprietary running shell) comes in at 165g and the Castelli Idro 2 Jacket (hoodless SHAKEDRY™ cycling jacket) at 107g. This demonstrates that despite being a urban technical jacket, the Rhomb is relatively just as light as purpose built performance jackets.
Tested in both rainy and windy conditions; it’s easy to say that despite a lack of easily accessible WR and breathability ratings, the Rhomb handles inclement weather extremely well. Without the outer fabric the hydrophobic GORE-TEX membrane is exposed. This allows it to perform at its peak causing rain to simply bead up and roll off whilst you move. Water shed off effortlessly throughout testing on several rainy commutes with no sign of dampness underneath. Once out of the rain, a quick shake of the jacket removes the majority of the water left, leaving it completely dry within minutes. The seams are welded and taped to minimise weight and water seepage through the seams.
The lightweight zippers are water resistant but not completely waterproof, this time testing under running water for a few seconds. Realistically, this would probably take several minutes to penetrate through heavy downpour. Ironically, the mesh wash bag included has a GORE-TEX zipper cover and waterproof zippers. This design decision suggests that at least parts of the jacket were not designed in the interests of technical performance or a useability context.
The hood is quite shallow, which only provides minimal coverage in the rain and it is not adjustable. This doesn’t bother me too much as I typically pair it with a waterproof cap: Norse Projects’ GORE-TEX Sport Cap. Veilance also has a cap made in Shakedry available: the Stealth SL. Unfortunately, the faux leather aesthetic that looks attractive on the Rhomb jacket does not translate well to the Stealth SL, in my opinion.
The jacket itself is quite minimal featuring two hand pockets, with one open and one zippered, featuring an additional internal secure pocket that doubles as a stuff sack for further packability. This is secured further with an internal snap.
For visibility there is reflective trim and panelling on the back and hood which remains discrete during the day due to the similarity in colours with the body textile. The aesthetic of the back panel is a stand out in the Rhomb’s visual design.
The sleeve cuffs have a geometric cut to them, which is another differentiating feature that provides a hint of futurism, which is one of the main attractions of Veilance for me, and I’m sure other fans of the brand.
A mesh washbag is also included to protect the outer while washing. I have not had the opportunity to test this yet but the mesh washbag inclusion is a nice addition to have and could be used for other small garments as well.
4. Issues and Concerns
4.1 Potential Durability Concerns of GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™
One concern that I’ve seen online on multiple reviews of jackets that feature GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ is “durability”. However, none of these actually quantify this concern with photos or discussion of the material being damaged during wear. The inclusion of the mesh washbag also led me to believe that the jacket might be fragile. However, wearing this piece off and on for the past two months, I note no tears, rips or holes in the material despite wearing it with a loaded backpack, and no excessive marking either which can happen with some waterproof textiles. Perhaps other reviewers of similar SHAKEDRY™ jackets felt worried by the fabric’s combination of pliable, rubbery texture and extreme thinness. However, so far in use there has been no issue at all.
Should a durability issue manifest in time, this article will be amended.
4.2 Excessive Wrinkling of GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™
This is a major issue that I have experienced myself from the first day of owning the Rhomb. With the jacket folded away in its pocket it will wrinkle heavily in a very unattractive pattern. Even when wearing the jacket for a length of time the wrinkling does not smooth out. To get a crisp, fresh look to a Rhomb jacket you will have to steam it or allow it to hang for a long period of time. This is simply not practical for a jacket meant to be packed away as a lightweight shell in one’s everyday carry.
When handling the Norvan SL Insulated Hoody https://arcteryx.com/ca/en/shop/mens/norvan-sl-insulated-hoody I wondered why Arc’teryx would use insulation when the main material was GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™, which I held that was a material best suited for weight savings. But now it is clear that design choice was to eliminate the wrinkling that occurs with this texture as glued insulation will largely prevent it from happening.
4.3 Lightweight Zippers are Water-Resistant but not Waterproof
Water will leak through the main zipper over time, especially in heavy downpours. The light zipper was most likely used for both weight savings and to reduce the incidence of fabric warping on the front, which can occur when zippers are much heavier than the fabric they are attached to. A zipper placket in the SHAKEDRY™ material would have helped here if the designers had to utilise lightweight zippers because of material issues.
4.4 Pattern Cut/Fit Concerns
The slim, running jacket cut is somewhat disappointing on the Rhomb for a number of reasons. There already are a large number of jackets from other brands, much more competitively priced using GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ that are either lighter or perform better, or often both, than the Rhomb, as they are purpose built athletic garments. Veilance had the opportunity to do something different in the Rhomb with a more urban use case, but instead the cut and fit make the outer more Veilance’s take on a running jacket than an urban technical jacket that features SHAKEDRY™. At 173cm (5’8″) and 70kg (154lbs) with an athletic build I sized up to a Medium and even then it is quite tight in certain areas. As running jackets are made for consumers that are very lean and slight in build to maximise performance in their hobby, the cut makes perfect sense. However, for the typical techwear consumer who might want to purchase the Rhomb for urban activities, this cut will not suit or be flattering on many people. This should be considered for those with a very slim and lean build.
Another related issue is the YKK main zipper is only a 1-way zipper meaning if you size up significantly you cannot control the fit at all. Since the zippers aren’t even waterproof, this is another design decision that has made the Rhomb less versatile than it could have been with a relatively minor change.
Further, when considering how prone to wrinkling the fabric is, the cut was most likely chosen to be form fitted as possible to minimise that issue, as when stretched or pulled taut it is lessened somewhat. Veilance’s use of a running jacket pattern may have been one of necessity due to the material.
4.5 Hood Coverage and Fitness Issues
Simply put, the Rhomb’s hood has not been designed for ample rain protection on its own. A typical urban or outdoor technical shell will easily outperform the Rhomb in this regard. As I am usually wearing a GORE-TEX cap for my day to day, this was not an issue for myself. However, prospective buyers should be aware they will need a waterproof cap to supplement this jacket if you want complete head and face coverage in the rain. Again, this hood coverage issue is most likely because the designers could not get a more ample design to work with the delicate SHAKEDRY™ material.
Additionally, as the textile is so delicate, the hood will pool rather unattractively around the base of your neck unless propped up with an inner layer. For those used to a stiff, high seated hood when worn down in their urban technical outfits, this material issue should be considered.
4.6 Final Thoughts on Overall Design Choices
As noted above, the choice in cut, hood design and zipper choice all diminish the utility of the Rhomb significantly as a packable, urban technical shell. While GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ may be unable to present aesthetically without backing or an insulator such as the Arc’teryx Norvan SL Insulated Hoody, there were still features lacking such as a zipper placket to cover the zippers, a 2-way zipper, venting under the arms to release heat, extra pocket carry, a removable hood option, or any number of extra features that would have given more utility to the design for urban use. Runners will not be looking at this jacket as a performance choice because of its excessive price and slightly higher weight than dedicated performance brands can provide. And urban technical commuters have a compromised shell that is beaten by other garments that might be slightly heavier but are considerably more practical and aesthetic using different materials. Prospective buyers need to consider all the limitations inherent with GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ and the trade-offs Veilance have made to design and market the Rhomb jacket before making a purchase decision.
5. Use Case and Styling
I carry the jacket with me in my backpack to work and when I go out each day as an emergency shell in case it rains. With a large wardrobe of Veilance and Arc’teryx pieces I think the Rhomb’s minimal design and muted dark colour coordinate well with other pieces from these brands.
As the jacket is very slim fit, similarly slim pants and tops are necessary for styling to create a balanced silhouette.
Outfit Summary
- Veilance Rhomb Jacket
- Veilance Cevian Tee
- Veilance Convex LT Pant
- Arc’teryx Norvan SL GTX Shoe
- Arc’teryx Granville 25L Backpack
- Norse Projects GORE-TEX Sports Cap
- Peak Design Slide Camera Strap
6. Summary
6.1 Pros
- Futuristic design details in the cuffs and back reflective panel
- Unique off-black/brown colourway
- Very lightweight and packable for a waterproof shell
6.2 Cons
- Slim running jacket cut will not suit many buyers or work easily with non-slim cuts in an outfit
- Non-waterproof zippers with no placket to cover them
- Shallow hood means a waterproof cap is necessary for full head and face rain coverage
- Excessive wrinkling will always be an issue with the Rhomb unless steamed and worn each use, never packed away
6.3 Verdict
If you want a minimally designed, slim cut, lightweight running jacket in Veilance’s unique off black/brown colourway, the Rhomb is a great option. Be aware of non-waterproof zippers, a shallow hood and excessive fabric wrinkling. As Veilance has made this design so close in DNA to a performance running jacket, this means that other options from performance brands become viable alternatives unless you are a diehard Veilance fan.
Ethical Statement: This product was purchased by myself with my own funds and is in no way endorsed or otherwise sponsored by the manufacturer (Veilance).