Written by: XEONIQ [ Instagram | Tumblr ]
Contents
1. Introduction
Designed with the urban cyclist in mind, the now defunct Commuter range from Levi’s was an interesting and somewhat long running attempt at designing clothing for both performance and casual contexts. While the Commuter line’s staple items were polyester blend stretch jeans and denim jackets that provided more freedom of motion and durability than their cotton denim mainline, there were a number of products that were more full-featured and performance-focused. While up to this point Shell Zine has only featured brand new items one could buy today, given how abundant this jacket and other pieces from the Levi’s Commuter range are on auction sites such as eBay and Y!JP, I felt it still relevant and accessible enough as a piece to warrant a review.
As Levi’s enjoys both a large global retail distribution network, as well as product lines for both genders, Levi’s Commuter branded garments were also released in a number of women’s cuts and designs. As the majority of techwear fans online are male, most niche techwear brands, with a few exceptions, do not cater to women or make unisex garments. While this jacket being reviewed is a men’s piece, a quick online search reveals a considerable number of women’s Levi’s Commuter pieces available.
To build on this, I believe accessibility is an important part of techwear as a forward movement where individual consumers reflect on their lifestyle, the contexts they will be wearing their garments and their own preferences when it comes to aesthetic style. Too often there is elitism in certain techwear circles which involves numerous value judgements based on the cost and brand of an item. I’ve always worked against this rhetoric and instead promoted a critical perspective where garments are judged by the consumer on face value. For that reason I thought it valuable to bring awareness to this jacket and the entire Levi’s Commuter range. Techwear as a movement cannot be advanced by gated brand elitists and accessibility of information and support for diversity is necessary to explore novel innovations in clothing and urban fashion.
While Levi’s is not a brand most techwear fans would look to, it is interesting to find older pieces like this that were available mass market with such a comprehensive attention to functionality for a decidedly urban context, and not for outdoor use. You can find jackets like this one on eBay and Y!JP for between $USD10-$USD50. At that price point I think these offer a lot of value for money.
2. Performance Specifications
Features highlights:
- Cotton / Polyamide blend textile with high water-resistance
- 2 x Hidden chest pockets with media port
- Extra back length for full coverage while riding a bicycle
- 2-Way YKK Vislon main zipper for adjusting while seated
- Sealed back compartment with waterproof zippers
- Toggle cord hem and hood adjustment
- Reflective piping and cord weave for visibility
- Fully vented storm flap for breathability
3. Design Features
Levi’s Commuter range launched roughly nine years ago and it’s last collection release appeared to be in 2016 and then again in 2017 for a one off “smart” trucker jacket collaboration with Google called Jacquard. The copy for the Commuter range reads like the standard techwear spiel:
Engineered for movement. Optimized for the city. Our entire bike-to-work clothing collection is crafted with next-level quality and precise attention to detail. It is the ultimate performance collection for today’s active urban lifestyle.
Why is this relevant when so many other cycling brands exist touting the same kind of ethos? The answer is because just like how the majority of products made by outdoors brands such as The North Face or Arc’teryx are not produced with the performance needs of urban context in mind, or in a suitable aesthetic, cycling brands tend to be on-bike focused with aerodynamics, bright colours and weight savings taking priority over urban requirements. Wearing a cycling jersey or unitard casually around town will look just as out of place as wearing a full mountaineering hiking outfit to a cafe or work. Neither are suitable aesthetically or performance-wise for urban contexts and hence why the Levi’s Commuter range stood out as a potential alternative for the techwear community.
Levi’s commuter started with a casual fashion aesthetic and modified their products in different ways to make them more robust and functional for short distance urban cycling. While the majority of these products are more in line with Levi’s traditional denim aesthetic, there are quite a few, like the jacket being discussed in this article, that have a more modern design that could work for some people in an urban techwear style.
Aside from being a black hooded jacket, the piece has a wealth of performance features. The outer textile itself is something I found quite novel. It feels like a light cotton twill, not as heavy as denim and is just as breathable. The polyamide blend in the fabric results in water repelling straight off it under a tap and in the few times I’ve had the jacket out in a light rain it has not soaked through. While this won’t be as water-proof as a membrane or laminated nylon, I’d argue it doesn’t need to be. In urban contexts we are out in the rain for a maximum of an hour, and typically much less as we ferry between our cars, public transport, work, school or a covered shopping area. In that context this fabric is well suited for urban use. It is not only far more comfortable and breathable than your typical membrane shell, but it is also just as quiet as cotton. It is far less clammy than the polyester used by Uniqlo for their BlockTech jackets so if comfort and quietness of the material are a consideration this jacket in particular should be of interest.
Aside from the novelty of the textile, I found the jacket to be well-featured and the quality of hardware components was something beyond what I would expect to see on a Levi’s garment. The longer fit at the back of the jacket is to ensure coverage of the lower back while stooped over in a cycling position and works well aesthetics wise with the drop crotch tapered pants currently favoured in techwear.
The use of flaps to cover all pockets against rain seepage is practical and you’ll find the same hem and cuff adjustment features that you’d expect from a modern shell.
Two hidden pockets under the front storm flaps also include a media port where one can feed headphones through the jacket to ensure they are always covered during a rain storm. With the popularity of wireless headphones this kind of feature will not be as widely appreciated but this kind of attention to detail and user needs is what also made me interested in vintage Nike ACG pieces some time ago.
The back pocket is gusseted and can expand to fit enhanced volumes. The waterproof zipper and the utilitarian placement and design of this pocket were what first stood out to me as a potential “techwear” piece.
A tag on the inside of the jacket reads “PLEASE DONATE WHEN NO LONGER NEEDED”. Corporate green-washing? Perhaps. But if that message prevented even 5% of these garments being put into a landfill when the original owner no longer wanted them, then that is a significant saving given how mass-market these were. To build on this, buying these jackets in 2020 and beyond in used condition is not only economical, but it is sustainable as well.
4. Issues and Concerns
There are not a lot of functional issues or concerns to be found with this jacket, especially for it’s low price. A few potential aesthetic issues will be discussed.
4.1 Hood Fitment is Performance-Oriented, rather than Aesthetically-Focused
The hood design on this Levi’s Commuter Jacket is 100% about performance. It is a slim fit with cord adjustment and will not come off during strong winds and fits easily under a bicycle helmet. It has a small brim to keep rain out of the eyes with reflective piping. This is not a silhouette or shape that most casualwear or fashion fans will be accustomed to, with the typical hoodie or techwear shell having a significantly wider hood, which might look good worn down but is not ideal in adverse weather. However, for some this aesthetic may be attractive regardless, and it does bear similarity to Undercover’s much coveted Diaplex Parka.
4.2 Potentially “Dated” Levi’s Heritage Details
Running down the front of each side of the jacket, Levi’s has retained a few of their heritage design details to keep this rain jacket still a part of Levi’s brand language. Referencing their iconic denim jacket, I could see certain elements in the techwear community turned off by such features, despite how low key they are.
5. Use Case and Styling
The Levi’s Commuter Jacket is quite slim fit to the boxy coats and jackets I usually wear. Slim fit pants will be necessary when coordinating this piece. I’ve styled the jacket with other affordable sportswear clothes from Nike for a weather-resistant urban look. I may update this review in the future with an outfit styled for urban cycling.
Outfit Summary
- Levi’s Commuter Jacket
- Nike Run DriKnit Long Sleeve Top
- Nike Sportswear Woven Pant
- Nike NSW SFB 6″
- Condor Failsafe Elite (Review)
- Unbranded Linen Bandana
6. Summary
6.1 Pros
- Very quiet yet heavily water-resistant cotton / polayamide blend textile
- Extremely affordable on the second-hand market between $USD10 and $USD50
- Robust design and construction, this is not a fragile techwear piece such as the Veilance Rhomb Jacket
- Considerate and well-designed performance functions for an urban cycling context; yet despite this cycling use case Levi’s have ensured the garments are very casual relative to the typical spandex form-fitted and bright-coloured cycling clothing aesthetic
6.2 Cons
- Levi’s Commuter range appears to have ceased at least 3 years ago and may not be coming back, ever. While there are some new dead stock items floating around eBay, you will most likely have to settle for used garments and may have to hunt for your desired size or model
- Some design details meant to retain Levi’s heritage such as the front seams can come across as “dated”
- The hood is quite fitted for cycling reasons compared to your typical streetwear or fashion hood and that might be an aesthetic issue for some
6.3 Verdict
If you are on a tight budget and want a techwear jacket that will keep you dry in urban contexts, a used Levi’s Commuter should be on your list of alternatives. I much prefer it to Uniqlo’s mainline Blocktech jacket and other similarly priced options. For those who already have an extensive collection of more modern techwear shells, this may still be of interest given it’s heritage and well-thought out features and serve as a “beater” jacket for short commutes on foot or cycling.
Ethical Statement: This product was purchased by myself with my own funds and is in no way endorsed or otherwise sponsored by the manufacturer (Levi’s).